Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
