When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.
The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners utterly astonished.
“I’m utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.
However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.
The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.
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